An Insider’s Report
On a recent visit to the top of the CN Tower, I had to pass through some crazy new form of security. As I stood in a booth of sorts, sharp bursts of air hit my head–Hey, my hair!!!–my torso, my legs. When I emerged on the other side, curious and slightly disheveled, I asked the security guard what that was all in aid of. She told me that the blasts of air would dislodge any tiny particles from my hair, skin, or clothes, and should I have been either making a bomb earlier in the day, or carrying one with me to the top of the tower, the machine would have detected it. Huh! Cool.
On my visit to the Loblaw test kitchen today the security wasn’t quite as tight as that–no imminent threat of bombs, I trust–but pinching recipes and corporate secrets is a real concern. Still, I was surprised they invite outsiders in. Though, two high-ranking PR people were never more than a foot away at any time, and often, whispers were exchanged between them, conferring over the level of secrecy of any given item or process.
So, it was after a wrong turn, followed by a long, scenic, and completely accidental detour to lovely Caledon–I must remember to come back in the summer!–I finally arrived, 45 minutes late. The President’s Choice test kitchen is located in the Loblaw corporate head offices in Mississauga, and quite the austere, imposing edifice it is; from the outside. The Madman-style lobby is sleek and spare with soaring ceilings, big art and uber-modern leather furniture. Once past the security desk, you enter what feels like a village unto itself. Staff mill about in the bright, open atrium, take lunch in the ‘food court’, or cluster around low tables in casual meetings. And somewhere, out of sight, is a fitness centre too. The folks I saw, looked genuinely happy to be there, in this covered village, in this industrial park, at the north end of Mississauga, Ontario…south of Caledon.
The immaculate test kitchen–all gleaming stainless steel and bright lights–is invisibly divided down the center, with product development
on one side, the test kitchen on the other, and the “round table”
smack dab in the middle. It’s here where a team of seven chefs, product developers, and food scientists, and assistants, dream up and escort each new PC product, every step of the way, from someone’s fertile imagination to the store shelf. It’s an incredibly involved process that can take about a year, with a new product going through as many as 100 trials before it’s deemed shelf-worthy. Bakery product developer, Karen Jull, walked me through the process, as one by one, other developers played show and tell with each other at “the round table”, in what’s called a group sensory panel.
Andrew Gugula, is the heartless dude responsible for developing all those tasty snacks and sweets–damn you!!!–and here, he’s performing a quality check on one of his newest products, tandoori almonds.
Part of this painstaking process is to check for breakage and splits. There is so much care and attention to detail put into every item PC develops. And it’s all about making sure you enjoy the product as much as possible.
Here, Sita Kacker, product developer for frozen grocery, puts three new proposed dishes for the PC Dine in Tonight line to the test.
“My mandate is to create restaurant quality meals, with the convenience of staying at home, but with much less fat or salt than a typical restaurant meal.” Dine in Tonight’s portions are generous, and the quality is there, for about $10 for two. And, each box includes a suggested wine pairing.
Now, one of the things I noticed almost immediately, was just how skinny everyone here is! And yet, everyone is totally surrounded by food and eating constantly. I’m old enough to be resigned to the fact that life is rarely fair–my father always told me that fairness didn’t exist in nature, it was a human ideal, that we humans rarely achieved. Anyway, as I was saying, I’m cool with that, but this was just too much! If I worked here, I’d be a big as a house. What was going on here? What black magic, witchcraft perhaps, was afoot. And then she did it, and it kinda grossed me out. I watched as the skinniest woman among them, took a heaping forkful of General Tao Chicken, chewed it for a bit, then grabbed a paper cup, and lifting it right up to her mouth, genteelly spit it out. Ah, so that’s what’s going on here. My first thought was, anorexia, bulimia, but then, possibly catching the horror on my face, Karen explained that everyone here spits.
“You have to. At first you don’t, but by the end of the day, you feel sick from so many bites of so many different things.”
Some days all they taste are cakes or ice cream, and that would not be easy on the system. But I was only visiting for a couple of hours, so I refused their kind offer of a spitting-cup of my own.
“We’re very serious about being green here” she went on, “all the cups are bio-degradable, and it all goes into the compost bins.” I was reassured by their commitment to the planet, but still, I decided to take my chances with the calories.
Karen Jull gives a demonstration of the fine art of spitting out your food like a lady.
On the testing side, Chef Dana Speers is creating a line of recipes for their Superstore’s “Feed Your Family for Under $10″ promotion, but she pauses to explain how the two sides and groups of pros work together.
“The chefs create ideas for recipes, then we take it to the product development team, and they get to work on creating a grocery store version, then they bring it back to us, and on it goes, back and forth until it’s perfect.”
But if you think the kitchen sends their products to market, never to think of them again, you couldn’t be farther from the truth. Karen put it beautifully, “They’re like kids, you launch them, but you never really say goodbye to them.”
It’s also up to the kitchen to ensure the consistent quality of a product, and to monitor work of the manufacturer.
Here, Sita and assistant product developer, Jackie Hougham are testing several currently available frozen meals to make sure they still taste just as they were designed to, some time ago.
And since these dishes are meant to be re-heated in a microwave, the
team have a wall devoted to several common household models, just to
make sure that the timing on the box works in most, if not all brands
of oven.
And if the team ever find themselves at a loss for ideas, there are three more walls covered in cook books.
It’s the end of March, but Chef Dana Speers is lucky to be able to pick
fresh chives from the large herb garden just outside the kitchen.
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Now, on a really sad note, well, for me anyway, this is my last blog. I’ll still be appearing on CTV Kitchener, once a month and posting recipes, etc., and look for my Epicure page in the print edition, but this is the end of my ramblings here at Zoomer, anyway. From now on, please visit my website www.signelangford.com where I’ll still be yapping away about whatever moves me.
Thanks for listening!
Cheers,
Signe
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